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Can You Really Give Yourself a Face-Lift at Home?

A Facelift from Your Sofa: Truth or Trendy Trap?


Note: this post is part of our gay beauty series.


Can you give yourself a face-lift at home? You know, like you see on all those TikTok videos?


Don't hold your breath. As Dr. Jacob D. Steiger, an acclaimed facial plastic surgeon hailing from Boca Raton, Fla, states, "The 'DIY facelift' is a brilliant ad slogan, but whatever you do at home will only serve your skin's surface. You'll never reach deep enough to correct facial ligaments."


Our faces are complex structures, bolstered by ligaments that support the cheek, jawline, and neck. As we hit our late 40s and early 50s, these ligaments can begin to droop, resulting in saggy cheeks, drooping jowls, and the notorious "turkey neck" - an elegant term for a pouch of flaccid skin and fat beneath the chin.


A facelift, scientifically known as a rhytidectomy, is a surgical procedure that repositions these sagging facial structures, as Dr. Steiger explains. The result? A sleeker, more sculpted face that takes years off your appearance.


You might be able to enhance your skin's texture through laser treatments at a dermatology clinic or mimic a lift with fillers. You could even firm up problem areas using radio-frequency therapy - a non-invasive skin-tightening procedure that heats skin's deeper layers to spur collagen and elastin production, both essential for plump, firm skin.


However, even that approach has its limits, cautions Dr. Debra Jaliman, a celebrated New York City-based dermatologist. She regularly reminds her patients, "Yes, your skin will tighten, but remember: it's not a facelift."


Face Tape: A Reel Solution?


What about taping your skin to maintain feature placement and immobilize facial muscles? Dr. Michele Green, another esteemed dermatologist from the Big Apple, shares, "Classic Hollywood stars were big fans of this trick."


Sadly, while you might look firmer for a fleeting moment, "as soon as you peel off the tape, everything collapses back to its original state."


At-home Micro-Current Devices: Real Deal or Hoax?

Micro-current facial toning gadgets, like those by NuFace and Ziip, vow to lift and firm the skin using low-voltage electrical current to stimulate facial muscles and boost collagen and elastin production. But do these promises hold water?


Dr. Rina Allawh, a well-respected suburban Philadelphia-based dermatologist, isn't entirely convinced. "There's a dearth of compelling data or rigorous studies offering strong evidence that these devices truly deliver skin tightening," she cautions.


Although some of Dr. Allawh's patients report seeing results, she conjectures that the improvement might actually be attributed to the accompanying serum used. "These devices often come with gel primers packed with hyaluronic acid, a substance we use in fillers to plump up the skin," she explains.


Since these DIY gadgets operate on minimal power — the NuFace is powered by a 9-volt battery, while most medical-grade devices typically require around 110 volts — "consistent and frequent use is a must to achieve any noticeable outcome," notes Dr. Kenneth Rothaus, a renowned plastic surgeon based in New York City and partner at Modrn Sanctuary medspa.


NuFace, which endorses the "5-minute facial lift," recommends usage five times a week for five to 20 minutes for the first 60 days, then reducing it to two to three times weekly.


However, Dr. Rothaus doubts whether many would stick to such a routine, quipping, "The truth might be more like that forgotten treadmill that's now a clothes hanger."


Dr. Green echoes his sentiment, saying, "Regular use may temporarily enhance your appearance, but that's just it — temporary." According to her, any effects are likely to be short-lived, lasting just a few days. An at-home micro-current device "will never be a substitute for Botox, laser resurfacing, or an actual facelift. I'm not convinced that it can offer long-term benefits," she concludes.


Do Facial Massages Work?


Rubbing your face with a slab of jade or rose quartz might be the latest trend on your social feed, but techniques such as gua sha and jade rolling have a rich history in Chinese medicine. Dr. Giselle Wasfie, a seasoned Chinese medicine practitioner and the mind behind REMIX Acupuncture and Integrative Health in Chicago, affirms they've been utilized for centuries to stimulate the body's "chi" (energy flow) and ease muscle tension.


Initially popular for treating shoulders and neck, facial gua sha, which involves sweeping a sculpted stone tool across your skin, has risen to fame as a beauty regimen in the United States in recent years, Dr. Wasfie notes.


In addition to aiding topical product penetration, both gua sha and jade rolling can enhance blood circulation, improve lymphatic drainage, and curb inflammation and puffiness, Dr. Wasfie explains. The gua sha tool, with its superior precision compared to a jade roller, tends to offer her clients a somewhat more "elevated" appearance. The soothing motion of both methods can also alleviate facial and jaw muscle tension. "There's a calming benefit from the stone against your skin. It feels like a mini meditation," she adds.


However, don't expect gua sha and jade rolling to boost collagen production or smooth out wrinkles, warns Dr. Rina Allawh. "Currently, there's scant evidence to back this up."


Boosting Youthfulness from Home - What Works?


For the amount you'd spend on a home-use micro-current device, such as the $339 NuFace Trinity or the $495 Ziip GX, Dr. Debra Jaliman recommends opting for skincare products instead. A line-up including a retinol, glycolic acid toner, vitamin-C serum, and a cream boasting niacinamide can "truly enhance your skin's appearance at home," she asserts. Consider a product containing hyaluronic acid for hydration and an eye cream infused with peptides to spur collagen production.


"Ultimately, I believe you'll get more value for your money," she states.


Unsurprisingly, sun protection is paramount. "Often, facial drooping or sagging is the result of sun damage," Dr. Allawh explains. "Long-term sun exposure accelerates collagen depletion in our skin." This leads to the obvious conclusion that (yes, you know it's coming) unwavering commitment to SPF is vital.



Dr. Michele Green emphasizes the importance of sun protection, saying, "I always tell people the three golden rules are sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen. Nothing can replace avoiding sun damage."


For a temporary solution, take inspiration from beauty influencers and master the art of makeup illusion. Celebrity makeup artist and Kimiko beauty brand founder, Danielle Vincent, shares her insights: "It's a game of light and shadow manipulation. You can trick the eye into perceiving a three-dimensional object that's not really there."


To simulate a lifted cheek effect, apply a highlighter along the top of your cheekbone and add blush right below it on the outer cheekbone, advises Ms. Vincent. Finish off with a matte contour makeup slightly above the natural hollow of your cheek. Blend contour makeup along the jawline to conceal sagging, "or slightly higher, to shadow anything that might catch the light," she adds.


Regardless of your chosen method, remember to maintain realistic expectations. And approach the concept of an at-home facelift with a good amount of skepticism. "It's essentially a fantasy," Dr. Green quips. "It's a catchy phrase that appeals to the masses. Who wouldn't want a facelift at home, minus the needles, anesthesia, and recovery period?"

Michael Alvear • June 10, 2024
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